It’s cold outside and it’s July, the kind of weather that makes you want to stay home but when
she calls you, you know you have to go.
You barely arrive at the beach by the time the heater in the car has even kicked into the warm
cycle but you see the lines of swell and you know it was worth it.
The walk up to a surf spot known as “The Wedge”, one of Newcastle’s lesser known spots. Situated
under the lighthouse the wedge offers a left handed wave with a shallow take off.
As you approach you see the solitary figure out carving up a fresh green monster. He is there,
the lone guy in the line up in the middle of a winter swell surfing just in his brown stubbies
shorts and riding his old single fin board.
This my friends is true, it’s the early 90’s and he is there with no wetsuits, no fancy boards
and as hard core as it gets.
The water is so cold the first time your head goes under, pins and needles set in but he flicks
off a wave and gives you a nod, he is to be respected.
Three of us sit out there, no hassling for waves as we take turns in the joy that only set
waves can bring.
Moments like these stick in your memory, not because of the waves but the time, the people
and the respect.